Life on the road.

Monday July 22 1929

Arose after a very poor night and not feeling too good, a touch of flu or something. After breakfast soon got on the road and had company now, Hobbler and his man going on ahead and we also had a chap riding on our load who wanted to go through. Newcastle Waters from Anthony’s is 180 miles and nothing in between except a string of about 8 bores. The road on the whole is good except for a stretch of about 12 miles which is frightfully rough, having been bogged in the wet weather. Some 50 odd miles on the road we came, in the midst of a vast open plain, to a lonely grave, that of a man name Brady who perished there on Xmas day ’26 Tthe tombstone having been erected by his sister. 30 or 40 miles further on we came to the remains of Chev car which had been burned out there. Left on the road where it caught fire. At one of the bores we stopped and had lunch and to save time did not boil the billy but drank cold water. At all these stops of course there as usual much camera clicking, and the Col will have a big bill to pay ‘Kodak’ when he returns to Melbourne. At 4 pm we finished our 180 miles run and reached Newcastle Waters on the overland telegraph line. Did not feel so much out of touch with civilization here. To celebrate the occasion went and sent a couple of telegrams south. Called up at the Police Quarters and had a yarn to Constable Muldoon and then went across to the cattle station quarters where the manager Mr Burkett lives and remained with him for the night. This station is owned by some of the wealthiest of the cattle men but the house and buildings are an absolute disgrace, the only place in Northern Australia that could be called such. Having got a bed for the Col, I unrolled my swag on the floor and feeling far from well, after taking some quinine tablets, turned in. The Col tried to get up a conversation with Burkett but only being able to receive as an answer either Yes or No he soon gave up and turned in also. Quiet a number of blacks about here and more in their native state. One young blood of about 14 or more was careering around without a stitch on him.

Tuesday July 23 1929

Another crook night and feeling very seedy. The Col seems alright though. Soon got packed up and loaded up and had to purchase two 2 gallon drums of benzine and pay 2 pound 5 shillings a drum. Intended today to journey on until meet McGregor and Gribble. The road now is not at all good, rough and uneven and progress is much slower. Country is somewhat different also. Instead of the open downs we passed through scrubby country. Very much prettier than the downs as we could, with no stretch of imagination, think we were passing through park lands, some very nice trees in places. There was some heavy going in places where we struck some sand. At last about 11 am and some miles from Newcastle Waters and 20 miles from Daly Waters we pulled up head on and a few feet from McGregor’s car, with Gribble in it. An ideal spot for a meeting too, shady with nice grass to cover the dust, so we pulled off the road and soon had a billy boiling. A rather memorable meeting this in far northern Australia of 4 of the Inland Mission staff and board. Both cars were carrying an extra passenger and they got the lunch ready while the rest of us talked. Had a very good lunch too, McGregor coming to light with hosts of provisions, cakes, dates, fruit etc. I contributed a little from my supply which although not so elaborate and not possessing great variety was substantial. After lunch we continued our talk on the work of the mission and concluded with a little service. Then there was the exchange of passengers and luggage and I had a much bigger load on than before. This memorable meeting of course necessitated a great deal of camera clicking after which we each continued on our separate ways. Now the real talking began between Cec (Gribble) and I, as while the Col was there we naturally felt a little restrained. College days and ways and chaps were brought to mind and we were soon back at Newcastle Waters. Decided to remain here so pulled at Burkett’s and placed ourselves as the guests of that gentleman. Cecil carries a folding stretcher so I commandeered that and after taking more quinine turned in early. Cecil soon followed.

Wednesday July 24 1929 (Olive’s birthday) My father’s sister.

Up and brek\akfasted but feeling very off color, so after meditating for half an hour over a big dose of Castor Oil took it. Oh the beastly stuff, no more for me. Can still taste it. It was with me all day. It eventually did some good as I felt much better by evening. Cecil did most of the driving today although I took the wheel toward evening and we came into Anthony’s Lagoon in great style, hit up 45 miles an hour for the final spurt. Nothing of any importance happened on the 180 miles run. Boiled the billy for lunch at one of the bores. Pulled up for the night with Constable Hall and after tea we got out the organ and had a great sing. Hall is a bit of a singer and very fond of music. Doug Cotton, manager of Anthony’s Cattle Station was also there and joined in and altogether we had a very pleasant evening which concluded with cocoa, scones and cheese.

Thursday July 25 1929

Had a quiet morning at Anthony’s Lagoon. After spending a bit of time on the bus spent the rest in sunbathing and regaining strength which the castor oil had sapped away. Loaded up and after lunch left for Brunette which was reached after a good run, only one stop. The bus is not going too well. Carburetta trouble. Still she is not holding us p completely. Reached Brunette and being asked to stay, decided to accept. Pulled in at the wireless room and finding a double bed made it our home. Mr Nelson was away but Mrs and Miss were at home and we were soon on the tennis court. Miss nelson Mr Acton the book-keeper Cec and I making the four. Had some good tennis until tea time. After tea several others arrived. A lot of Vestie’s ( Vestey) men. Mr Conaber the head man, Mr Moray, Mr Tooker, also Capt Bishop stock inspector, Seg Smythe of the N.T Police. A happy party when we were all together playing ping-pong and then some of them finished up with cards. After supper we went to turn in and beds were everywhere and about midnight 3 more arrived. Bunning, another of Vestie’s men and me talked until the small hours of the morning much to the disgust of all who were trying to sleep.

Friday July 26 1929:

A day off and a full day’s tennis. Played tennis from 9 am until sundown. Max Campbell who arrived the night before making up the four. A thoroughly enjoyable day but certainly the most tennis I have had in one day. Cecil was completely done by the time evening arrived. Doug Cotton arrived before tea so after we had some ping pong until supper time. These people are R C’s but showed great hospitality in entertaining the Methodist Church.

Saturday July 27 1929:

Had another tennis morning. Cecil was done from the previous day but Doug Cotton made up the four and we played until dinner time. Having loaded up and thanked all for their kindness etc we left for Alroy Downs, 50 miles distant. Doug Cotton, Max Campbell came across also. Arrived in time for ‘smoko’ after which all getting into the big Hudson Mrs Schmidt drove us all and Miss Wendt and her sister out six miles to , the stock camp where Mr Schmidt was drafting, prior to branding. Had a talk and persuaded him to come in for the evening and then come back. On arriving back, got ready and had some tennis until tea time. Have a beautiful home here with all conveniences possible out here. As soon as tennis was over a hot bath was much enjoyed. Mr Schmidt arrived home for tea after which we competed for a while on the ping pong table. Adjourning then to the drawing room we had some music, Cecil at th piano and singing too. After supper all retired. Slept out on the verandah upstairs. A beautiful night and a good one to sleep which we all did.

Snap happy!

Sunday July 21 1929

A good night’s rest in a decent bed allowed me to rise fresh and willing. The Col thoroughly appreciated a good warm bed. After a great deal of camera clicking and shaking of hands, farewells having been said, we left for our next stop, Brunette Downs. Nothing of any importance eventuating on the 60 miles run, we soon reached the station homestead and found that the manager and family had gone across to Alroy for the day. As it was nearing lunch time we went and interviewed the cook and received an invite to dinner. Of course it had to be in the quarters with the men. In the meantime we explored and noted everything to be noted, had a talk to some of the men and made friends with ‘Billy the tame ‘Brolga’ or Native Companion. The dinner bell called all and sundry to a feast the cook had prepared. It was everyman for himself but I waited on the Col. Roast or Corned: plenty of vegetables and about 6 varieties of sweets. Although all eating utensils were tin, the Col had a good meal and of course I was quite at home. Having thanked the cook and clicked the camera set off for Anthony’s Lagoon. The road still continuing very good and fast progress was made. Missed the road once and went right round a paddock and came back to the gate we went in but soon picked up the road again. After passing over 60 miles of country pulled up at Anthony’s Lagoon store, kept by Count Beyondy and he is beyond all reason with his charges. For a 60 lb bag of flour he charges 34 shillings. Did not stay here but went on to the police quarters and pulled up. Constable Hall is a very decent chap and made us welcome. Staying here also was Mr Hobbler and his driver. Hobbler is one of the Northern Australia Commission and not a bad sort, getting a good screw 2 pound 2 shillings a day travelling allowance which he does not have to touch. The Col not having a swag made things a bit awkward but we managed. Hall gave up his bed and we divided up his and my blankets and I slept in my clothes. Before retiring I brought out the gramophone and we had our Sunday night service in the open air and after a sing had a short prayer and turned in. Anthony’s Lagoon is one of the most desolate places in Northern Australia, boasting a store, police quarters and the commencement of a cattle station.

(Locating Anthony’s Lagoon information on the Internet I came across a lantern slide picture of Anthony’s Lagoon , from the Inland Mission archives, and will attempt to locate its origin as the above diary entry mentions taking photos indicating this could well be one of my father. )

Fun and games.

Thursday July 18 1929

Left Wandangie with Col Holden on return to Camooweal. Had a good run through although somewhat dusty for the first part. Called at Headingley and had ‘smoko’ and then on to Lake Nash for lunch. Went round, passed the cattle yards and dip where a mob of cattle were being inoculated for pleura. Watched them for awhile. Very interesting for us, if not for the cattle. Left Lake Nash and soon came back into Queensland, having done quite a lot of interstate traveling in the last 2 days. Called in at Headingley and arrived at Camooweal at 6.30 pm. Had a good tea and soon retired.

Friday July 19 1929

Going over the bus and getting ready for the trip tomorrow. Took Col up to see plane arrive. After lunch called at hospital and then to Rocklands station. Since tea have been for a while to a kitchen tea and now writing and packing for trip tomorrow.

Saturday July 20 1929

Up bright and early and the air having a decidedly frosty nip, one had to keep moving. Having breakfasted, called at Post Office and store for mail, and provisions for people along the road and with the Colonel on board left Camooweal at 9.30 am. The wind was very cold blowing strongly from the south west and necessitated the putting up of one side curtain. Had a good run to Avon Downs station stopping at varying intervals while the Colonel’s camera clicked. At the passing through the border gate, mobs of cattle, dead beasts, kangaroos etc. Finding noone at home at Avon, after more camera clicking, we moved on and now it becomes quite warm and before long the side curtain is removed and while crossing the Rankine plain the wind screen was raised to get some more breeze. Pulled up at the police quarters at Rankine and Sergeant Smythe soon provided an excellent lunch of steak and eggs. Leaving there after more camera clicking had a non stop run through to Alexandria, a wonderful road, 40 miles out and not much more than an hour traveling. Welcomed warmly by manager and wife, Mr and Mrs Johnston, and soon were enjoying ‘smoko’. Then before tea, while the Colonel rested, we had some tennis. Mr and Mrs Johnston, Mr Harvey the mechanic and self playing. Mrs Johnston and I played together, lost the first and won the 2^nd set and were accused of winning the second through cheating, most unfair. Harvey and I also had a good singles. A win for the Church. After partaking of an abundance of good things provided for our evening meal we continued our afternoon duels on the pingpong table and again the Church conquered. The Colonel sat back and was the audience. After a rather exciting evening and the Colonel having retired, we all found our way to the kitchen and had cocoa, biscuits and cheese, very enjoyable. These people are R.C’s but entertained the Methodist Church in a wonderful manner. They have a very nice home and is quite a welcome retreat when one is travelling.

Thursday July 11: 1929

Left Riversleigh again, this time on my own, back over yesterday’s road. Got through onto the main road alright and continued on my way back to Camooweal. For 60 miles it was a terribly rough road, nearly as bad as from Riversleigh to the main road. Rocky and hilly. Arrived at Finlay’s, just in time for dinner, and sat down to oxtail pie. Did not stay long but pushed on and eventually reached Millers at Undilla. Only stopped for a few moments and then left for Camooweal. Practically everyone is away all along this route, all out mustering, so although I thought I might stay at Miller’s did not do so. Darkness overtook me, 30 miles out but eventually reached here at about 7.30 pm. Was feeling rather tired, so after getting my things in and making a cup of tea, went to bed and slept soundly. Had a good trip and enjoyed it. At the same time the bigness of the work and the difficulty of finding a suitable opening for doing the real job, has again impressed me.

Friday July 12: 1929

Back to the usual Camooweal routine. Have been practically all day writing. Have a terrible lot to do too, and reports to write and balance sheets to make out. Went across to the hospital this afternoon and had a yarn and cup of tea. Have been writing this evening. The weather is quite cold again, owing to a heavy wind blowing. The last three or four days have been real hot but today has been the reverse and folk have been going about shivering all the time. A case of typhoid in the hospital but not serious.

Saturday July 13 1929

Have had another car day today. This morning the bus refused to go so I had to see what was wrong. After just about taking the whole thing to pieces, all for no good, suddenly thought that yesterday I put in a tin of Texaco spirit which I borrowed along the broad and perhaps this was the trouble. Went then and drained out the Texaco and put in some Plume and shortly she went so no more Texaco for Oldsmobile. Spent the rest of the day in oiling and greasing. After tea decided to do some writing but went in next door to Synotts and stayed for some time. Came ij after supper and wrote until 12.30 am, making up mission returns and reports and still not finished.

Sunday July 14^th 1929

Arose with the lark that slept in. Up in time for breakfast though, after which got ‘did up’and went across to Sunday School. Had quite a nice number of children there and had a talk to them. Am getting nthe children to learn a few tunes and they enjoy a sing very much. After lunch did some thinking forte service tonight and accidentally went to sleep over it for a while. Theb people must have all been tired as there was a small muster at the service, still we had a good service for all that. Had supper at Riley’s after the service and then came home and completed at 1 a.m my returns.

Monday July 15^th 1929

Spent the morning in getting ready for the trip to Wandangie and after lunch left with Mr Doyle the stock inspector as gate opener. Crossed the Georgina outside the town and headed for Barkley Downs station. 48 miles away. Country not too bad down this way, more feed than in other parts. Arrived at Barkley station and decided to stay the night and enjoy the hospitality of Mr. and Mrs. Clancey. Had a very good tea after which leaving the ladies to themselves we went across to the men’s quarters and sat on the verandah and talked until the cold drove us to seek the company of the blankets.

Tuesday July 16^th 1929

A bitterly cold morning and the breakfast bell was not a welcome sound, still it had to be obeyed. A warm breakfast helped considerably and before starting off in the bus we sat in the sun away from the wind to warm up. Made for Lake Nash station in the territory for lunch, passing the border 8 miles from the homestead and 48 miles from Barkley. Roads good but wind cold. Lake Nash homestead a great home, good flower garden, only one in this part of the world. Mrs Sutton wife of manager takes a great pride in it. Lake Nash on the Georgina River and decent water hole handy which supplies the moisture for the garden. A very nice house too, comfortable, in fact too good to leave so stayed. Put the afternoon in at the bus. After tea we all sat around a real fire and talked, then to bed.

Wednesday July 17 1929

Up early and another cold morning. Breakfasted up at the men’s quarters and started off for Wandangie. Went off the main road and called on a large family living in a couple of tents and a bush lean-to , about 10 children. Some of the kiddies outside trying to keep warm around the fire. Had a talk and left some books and papers. Crossed back into Queensland and 40 miles from Lake Nash came to Headingly Station. Met te manager and book-keeper and had ‘smoko’ with them, then on the last part of the journey 20 miles to Wandangie arriving at11.45 am. Very dry and desolate down here and evidence of the drought is already seen. Dusty roads, no grass. Wandangie itself shows also effects of bad seasons. Only a handful of houses and practically no life visible anywhere. Pulled up at the hotel, a big two storied place and took a room to await the arrival of Rev Ball and Col Holden. Had lunch and went to room and rested. Col Holden arrived during afternoon by hire car as Ball’s car had broken down. Col had a very rough trip and feeling very much off. Later on I went around the folk and arranged for a service at night. Had a very nice service too, a good little gathering, about the best in these parts I have had. Col gave the folk a talk. After service bed was the warmest place.

I looked up Lake Nash Station on the INternet and there is a video tour of the current station. Very interesting, particularly for me, imaging my dad arriving there all those years ago in his old 'bus' as he called it. A powerful connection to the past.